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Phys. Rev. Lett. 86, 5831–5834 (2001)

Freak Waves in Random Oceanic Sea States

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Miguel Onorato, Alfred R. Osborne, Marina Serio, and Serena Bertone
Dipartimento di Fisica Generale, Università di Torino, Via Pietro Giuria 1, 10125 Torino, Italy

Received 28 August 2000; revised 7 March 2001; published in the issue dated 18 June 2001

Freak waves are very large, rare events in a random ocean wave train. Here we study their generation in a random sea state characterized by the Joint North Sea Wave Project spectrum. We assume, to cubic order in nonlinearity, that the wave dynamics are governed by the nonlinear Schrödinger (NLS) equation. We show from extensive numerical simulations of the NLS equation how freak waves in a random sea state are more likely to occur for large values of the Phillips parameter α and the enhancement coefficient γ. Comparison with linear simulations is also reported.

© 2001 The American Physical Society

URL:
http://link.aps.org/doi/10.1103/PhysRevLett.86.5831
DOI:
10.1103/PhysRevLett.86.5831
PACS:
92.10.Hm, 47.20.Ky, 47.35.+i